I Love The Pain !!!!

This morning i took jarryd and his mate max to Cabarita. The swell hitting the Goldie was about 1 foot but fuck me if it wasn't reaching over 3 foot at Caba. At least they weren't sucky .... just massive walls of fluff some with faces as big as around 8 foot. The 2 lid riders were loving the size but after 30 Min's my shoulder felt like it was about to detach from my body and fuck off to somewhere where a little less exertion was needed. Of course after 1 wave that all changed. i haven't been out since last Sunday and I'm going nuts from lack of activity but, oh my god when your looking down a 7 foot face and about to get the best wave of your day you just forget the pain and ride the adrenaline.

I now have a goal for the next couple of months. With my injury i've put on 10 kilo's and lost some muscle, so i think i'm getting back ion shape and getting on with my life from where it was interupted. If i don't just get back to where i was the 4 months of depression that i've been in since the accident will take over and i may as well just give up .......... and there is no way that Conrads or any other fucker is ever going to make me give up. Screw them all i'm back and they better look out or i'll fuck them up.

Wow that felt good i think i'll need to get a bit crazy or i'll just fade away.